Around India In 80 Trains

MONEY: It might sound obvious but keep lots of small tender with you. Especially five and ten rupee notes. Tea and coffee cost Rs.5 and it's much easier for the vendors if you give them the correct change.

TOILET PAPER: No, trains don't have toilet paper so bring your own stash. They do, however, have a tap and a mug so if you feel ready enough to dabble with the homegrown method of bum-washing, then feel free. Bear in mind that if you do use wet wipes and toilet paper they all tumble straight down the loo and onto the tracks, so limit your use. And for the same reason DO NOT use the loo at a station. It's horrible for the cleaners to have to clear after the train has gone.

WATER: We both cleaned our teeth using the tap water onboard and had no trouble, but DO NOT drink it. Always keep bottles of water that cost Rs.12 and you can buy anywhere on the platform. All bottles should have a plastic cover around the sealed neck.

CUTLERY: You really should just eat with your fingers, food tastes best that way, but if you can't stand the thought then bring a plastic spoon or two and a couple of plastic bags to take your rubbish with you. There are no proper bins onboard and cleaners don't always come immediately.

SECURITY: Buy a chain for your luggage that you can use to secure everything under the seat. Neither of us had them and lost nothing in four months on 80 trains, but we were lucky. Buy a little pouch and keep your passport and money around your neck when you sleep or at least somewhere on your person.

SLEEPING BAGS: If you're travelling in 2AC or 3AC then it can get a bit nippy at times so keep a cardigan or jumper. Both these classes provide bedding: two sheets, a thick scratchy blanket and a small pillow so you won't need a sleeping bag. General class does not provide bedding so you will have to bring your own and it can get cold at night. If you are worried about bed bugs, which aren't uncommon, then bring a sleeper sheet. They are like cotton sleeping bags and roll up into a tiny space so they don't take up room in your bag. Blacks does a good range, depending on your budget. Check their site here