Around India In 80 Trains

BOOK EARLY: If you plan on travelling around India by train, be aware that seats on popular trains are booked up to 90 days in advance so book your tickets as soon as you can. Demand is high, especially during festivals, so check if you are travelling around a national holiday or if there is any event going on in the area you are travelling to, as this could make all the difference.

FOREIGN TOURIST DESK: Check if the station has a foreign tourist desk. Chennai Central station has one, as does Mumbai CST and New Delhi. Many trains offer a small number of "tourist quota" tickets even if the train is fully booked for lndian residents. Anusha Thawani on the first floor of New Delhi station is excellent and goes out of her way to find last-minute seats. She is abrupt, but don't be put off, she is a softie at heart!

TOUTS: To be on the safe side, book all your tickets at a station and in person. Never accept tickets from touts or visit side-street agents claiming they will find you a confirmed seat. Indian railways has one central computerised system and it's safest to do all bookings where you know you aren't being cheated. Pahar Ganj in Delhi is renowned for touts scouring for tourists, so ignore them all.

LINGO: Learn the lingo. You might find your ticket says RAC, which means 'reserved against cancellation'. If someone else cancels a reserved ticket before departure, you will then be promoted to a confirmed seat or berth. You can still travel with an RAC ticket and will be given a seat, but you may not be offered a berth at night. WL means waitlisted, so you should check the sheet of paper stuck by the carriage door to see if your seat is confirmed.

ONLINE: You can buy tickets online at the official government-sponsored website irctc.co.in, but it is a bit confusing to navigate. Most people find Cleartrip.com a lot easier and worth the small extra booking fee. Visit them here.