Around India In 80 Trains

I have no idea why anyone would ever come to Umaria, but when we spent a week working on the Lifeline Express we stayed at Hotel Surya. It's literally a five-minute walk from the train station and does some of the best food in Umaria, especially dhal and aloo chapatis. The first room I stayed in was on the ground floor and had windows which opened onto the reception which I wasn't too happy about so shifted into another huge double room for the same price. This one had a little balcony, an air-cooler which was refilled constantly and a decent bathroom with a western toilet which was cleaned obsessionally every day by the staff.

Laundry was a bit of a no-no as we handed in whites that came back blue and had more stains than when we sent them in, but then you probably won't need to do any washing unless you're staying for a while. Staff were incredibly friendly and the service was great, so if you do happen to stop off in Umaria then this is the place to book.

Rooms start at Rs.400