Around India In 80 Trains

My birthday fell during our second trip to Mumbai, so we shed the rags and pushed the boat out for a classy meal at Khyber, strongly recommended by a Bombayite friend. Khyber's ornate doorway is remarkably well-hidden for being such a well-known spot, and we were worried it was a bit dead when we arrived at 7.30pm, but within half an hour both the upstairs and downstairs areas were heaving with friends catching up, business diners and families enjoying a raucous meal - a lovely mix of people that didn't at all upset a romantic meal.

Naturally we nailed a few cocktails before the crab bhurjee - crab fried in turmeric, onions and chillis and served in two upturned shells - it was tasty as hell but a little small.

However, the arrival of the tandoori grilled rawas (a type of Indian salmon) made up for it. This was one of the creamiest, softest and most gently roasted fish on skewers I have ever tasted and melted like I didn't know fish could. Next we tore through the beautifully-flavoured, lip-tingling mutton chop mughlai, marinated overnight in a dark red masala, and wiped up the remains with a couple of onion kulchas.

We were nicely full by the end although Passepartout's wallet was a little lighter. Ah well, it was my birthday after all.

Khyber's a great spot to stop by for a stack of naans and a handful of tandoori meat, or if you want to drag it out to an all-night fiesta, you can do that too. Check their website for the menu and prices.