Around India In 80 Trains

In 1991 I first came across the phenomenal food in Peshawari -when Chennai was still Madras - and miraculously the menu has stayed the same, and the excellent quality of food remained unchanged. As you walk into the low-lit restaurant you'll see the chefs through the glass throwing naan onto coal and vigorously twirling meat out of the tandoor. Vegetarians beware!

Despite being a five-star hotel, the low tables are twinned with wooden benches and you'll receive a checked apron at the beginning of the meal, which is handy, as this isn't a place to be dainty - it's a place to get stuck in to hearty, stomach-stretching food.

Start with the kadakh seekh kebabs, juicy, swollen chicken that melts in your mouth giving you an extra kick from the full green chilli buried inside. Then move onto the pride of Peshawari, the Sikandari raan - a slow-roasted leg of lamb seeped in spices and yoghurt, and so tender the meat disappears on your tongue. Wipe up the remains with romali rotis or "handkerchief" bread which comes folded into quarters and opens out into a huge, delicately thin sheet. A heavier naan will leave you feeling uncomfortable. If you can find space, try the rich tadka dhal, that comes in little clay pots, or the tandoori prawns that are so large you can bite into them like an apple.

Peshawari is always busy - a testament to the outrageously courteous staff, the laid-back atmosphere and of course, the incredible food, so make sure you book in advance or you will be so disappointed.