Around India In 80 Trains

Construction of this 53km stretch of railway from Jammu to Udhampur has extended the northernmost tip of the Indian Railways into the foothills of the Himalayas. It’s another incredible engineering feat that weaves around the rocky faces of the Shivalik mountain range, over wide-mouthed rivers and plunging valleys. Over twenty tunnels and 158 bridges offer up jaw-dropping views, especially from across the Gambhir bridge, although rumour has it that another bridge is currently under construction that will take over as the highest in India.

On the approach to Udhampur, the land flattens out into what resemble golden English meadows, and it's this last stretch that is the most beautiful. It's like having been taken on a long rollercoaster that eventually flattens out into an expanse you weren't expecting. The only downside is that this passenger train is almost always delayed leaving Jammu. While waiting on the platform it became pretty clear from the lack of other passengers around that this never leaves on time and around two hours after its due time, they all sauntered up. Passepartout made it to Udhampur on a direct express train from Delhi, so if you choose that option then make sure you move into the general class for the last stretch so you get to enjoy the views through open windows and doors. But the upside is that when you're waiting for the delayed train, the cafe at Jammu Tawi station does the best omelette sandwiches and after around 5pm their hot food selection is excellent.